Sun 8 Dec 2013
This has been hibernating unofficially for months now having finished the lower and upper body. I have resisted starting the sleeves or hood because I am almost convinced that I do not have enough yarn. Instead I am going to frog this (first marking it as Finished so that it gets blogged from Ravelry to natalieford.com and thence to natalief.livejournal.com and then, once the blogging has worked, I will mark it as frogged) and then make a Shellseeker using the yarn.
Sun 27 Jan 2013
Knitting samplers/prototypes for the cables (using red and white DK Patons 100% cotton and 3.75 mm needles) and learning vertical intarsia at the same time!
Sun 20 Jan 2013
I have increased the lower portion of the jacket eight times in the way described below and tried it on. It is flared enough for my hips but not as long as I would like and so I will knit straight down from here.
Sat 19 Jan 2013
I did rip it out and restart. I knit a longer waistband (17 repeats instead of 16 this time), picked up one stitch for every stitch along the side to knit down and am increasing avery four rows for a few times to give some shape to the hips but not the A-line called for in the pattern/recipe. If I had done 18 repeats of the waist it would have fit my hips perfectly and so I knit one fewer than that.
Mon 7 Jan 2013
Seriously considering ripping this out having almost finished the lower part because it is so very A-line and I am not that shape. I would lengthen the waistband to nearer the size of my hips/bust and make the jacket more straight down and up from the waist. Yes, I do have a waist, but this pattern/recipe does not best work with my waist and hips as written and so, rather than spend hours trying to make it work, I am just going to make a jacket with a less waspy waist than I have myself.
Notes / “pattern” for waistband:
Cast on 32 using Twisted German Cast-on.
Knit row 16 of the Waist Cable Chart.
Knit the chart 16 times (16 rows and 32 sts per repeat including a 2sts reverse stocking stitch (p2) band and a 2 st knit edging (k2) for picking up stitches, on both sides of the cable, i.e. the cable is only 24 sts wide).
Modified German Bind-off/cast-off.
Jan 1 2013; 00:27
Casting on the waistband!
Gauge/tension = 17 sts and 22 rows per 10 cm using 5 mm needles.
The first ball of Hayfield yarn (the brown CC) was 100% yarn barf when I tried to pull from the centre to start to knit a swatch and so I ended up winding all 400g into 8 smaller balls (roughly 50g each, I guess; using my hand-winding-centre-pull-balls-because-I-do-not-nave-a-ball-winder technique – I really must do that tutorial video!) and so cutting the one length of yarn into eight lengths. I figured that that would be okay because I will be using that yarn for the cable portions of the cardigan/jacket. This is why I have only given this yarn three stars. It is much softer then the minty coloured version that had viscose in it – this is just acrylic and wool.
I have ended up winding the first large skein/ball of the MC into smaller balls in the same way, this time winding from the outside of the large ball so as not to have to wrestle with the yarn-barf that I would no doubt get trying to pull from the centre. I did see if I could find the centre end of the yarn but quickly gave up.
Using the “Child’s Sock” pattern provided.
Knitting them top-down as per the provided pattern. Also knitting them two-at-a-time and magic-loop.
Not much to show as yet because I have only been knitting for one day.
This pattern refers to a Dutch Heel elsewhere in the pattern booklet that does not appear to be here.
Basing the heel on that in Susan B Anderson’s recipe but using 30 of 60 sts for the heel instead of 32 of 64 as she specifies.
adds a photo of the heel flaps
Last night I had a dream about the film that I am currently knitting socks for.
I dreamt that we were being paid for our artisanal crafting skills and our time. That the film was making money (I have no idea if it will be, in reality) and that our skills were truly valued and we were fêted for them. In reality we are being provided with yarn and pattern and we are volunteering to knit and not even paid minimum wage for our time.
Yes, there will be the ability to tell people that we knitted that sweater in the film, or those socks, and there will be an exhibition of the knitted items and patterns but what is that really worth to us in this day and age?
Kudos and “karma” are all very well but I will not be volunteering for anything like this again without first asking how much the pay for my skill and time will be. I will knit what I have the yarn for at the moment. I will not be offering to knit anything else for them or anyone who does not value my skill enough to remunerate me even for my time.
Edited to add a relevant note: I am also knitting myself leg-warmers from yarn that I have left over from knitting hubby a sweater whilst wearing a scarf, hat, fingerless mitts, two sweaters, two t-shirts, two pairs of socks, slippers, fleece-lined joggers and a blanket (and underwear, of course) because it is so cold in here and we cannot afford to have the heating on during the day.
Edited to add: I have now added a pair of leggings under the joggers.
I also read this article today after having had the dream last night which might explain why I blogged about this: On Devaluating Hand-Knitting.
This is my variation on Judy’s Magic Cast-On that I use because I prefer not to have to knit into the back of half of the number stitches – I always forget and the toe of the sock (or the base of the iPad case or whatever else I have cast on using this method) looks lumpy.
Assumes that you know how to knit in the round using the magic-loop method and that you know how to do a Long Tail Cast-On (LTCO).
1. Hold the two needle ends of a circular needle together in your right hand so that their ends point to the left.
2. Drape the yarn over the needle furthest to you with the tail end furthest from you and the ball end in between the two needles. Make sure that there is enough yarn for you to cast on the full number of stitches that you need to cast on. You will het better at estimating the tail length with practice and experience, just like estimating the tail length in the LTCO becomes second nature eventually.
3. Similar to the LTCO, hold the two lengths of yarn in your left hand and put your left thumb and left fore-finger up between the yarn to form a sling-shot/catapult effect. Your left thumb should make a loop in the length of yarn that comes down between the two needles and leads to the yarn ball and your left fore-finger should make a loop in the tail end of yarn that is behind both needles, furthest from you.
4. Using your left fore-finger, wrap the tail yarn up in front of both needles and then down between the needles.
5. Using your left thumb, wrap the ball end of the yarn up between both needles and down behind them both.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. You may notice that both wraps are “up and back”.
7. Once enough stitches have been cast on to the two needles, half on each needle, rearrange the needles in your left hand so that they point towards the right and so that the purl-looking bumps of the cast on are towards the top and the ball end of the yarn is hanging from the back needle furthest from you.
8. Pull the needle that has the ball end of the yarn hanging from it through the stitches so that they remain on the circular needle’s cable. This will be the right hand needle as you knit. the other end of the circular needle still in the other half of the stitches will be the left-hand needle as you knit. How just knit around as you would for magic-loop using the ball end of the yarn as the working yarn.
I tend to weave the tail end of the yarn up the start “fold” of the knitting by leaving it up on the first round, leaving it hanging outside on the second round and repeating those two rounds until it is secure, finishing with the remainder of the tail on the inside of the knitting/tube/toe.
Yes, I need to take photographs and make this a photo tutorial.
Please do tell me what you think of this method and whether it makes sense to you. I will be editing this as and when any errata are pointed out to me so please do test it for me!
Number of hats knit = 72.
I am knitting these in the round rather than flat with seaming. 3 so far since last night. Ends not woven in yet. This is my basic pattern/recipe/method which I sometimes change up by adding stripes or a stitch pattern:
Innocent Smoothie Hats knit in-the-round for the Age UK Big Knit 2013
3.5 mm circ. and heavy DK yarn or a 4 mm circ. and light DK (sport-weight) yarn.
Cast on 28 sts (I use the long-tail cast-on) and join in the round.
Knit the hat (I use the magic-loop of knitting in the round and these instructions are written with thattechnique in mind but you could use two circular needles or double pointed needles (DPNs)):
12 plain stocking stitch rows:
4 – 15: K28.
16: K2tog x 14.
17: K2tog x 7.
18: K1, k2tog x 3.
12 rows of i-cord or 4 sts magic loop (I prefer the latter):
19 – 30: K4.
Cut yarn and draw through the 4 remaining stitches.
Weave/sew in ends and then tie a knot in the i-cord.